Bethlehem - different perspective

I have the good fortune to be in Bethlehem to learn a second time. I did walk into the historic church and lay my hand at the spot which is venerated as the birthplace of Jesus. I have also seen historic photos of this place, and realize it was really a small village, with donkeys and camels and simple people stirring around 150+ years ago - long after the orthodox religious folks began minding the place. The blowing dust is impressive today - blotting out the vistas. I also had time to wander, to get bandages purchased by the piece from a roll, to shop at the women's embroidery cooperative, and see the Lutheran Church which is a mission partner with Ohio Valley Presbytery.
But then there's the other part of the day: students from Bethlehem University speaking about the difficulties of paying fees and getting to class from Jerusalem throught the checkpoint. A professor said - if they are late - don't blame everything onthe occupation! In other words, you know to start early from home, to adapt, to be strong. The university has a heritage exhibit/collection to remind young people that Palestinian heritage is rich with art and versatility. Some of the impressive art is on the wall surrounding the city, making it an "open prison." Sometimes the wall separated a shop owner from his home - always it cut off customers.Our broup met the director of BADIL, a refugee advocacy NGO and heard about their sense that justice will only come through one democratic nation, where all can share land and resources. Most Palesinian refugees live in the diaspora - beyond the borders of the WEst Bank. We visited some who are second and third generation in Dheisheh Refugee Camp -set up by the UN after 1948. It is regularly entered by IDF - Israeli Defense Forces. Unemployment is 60% In an area set up initially for temporary tents, there are now 13,000 residents - the larges of 3 refugee camps in Bethlehem's territory. It is sobering and also inspiring - as the people build new stories on their homes for expanding family - and children attend school - and people walked along with our hosts and greeted us, perhaps glad they are not forgotten by the internationals...as we are called here. There were flowers planted, water tanks shared, and graffiti naming young men in prison who are remembered.