Founders

I visited David Ben-Gurion's house, Independence Hall, the original City Hall which has displays about the origin of the city, the Museum of the Diaspora/ a history of the Jewish people - not all on the same day, fortunately! The challenges and energy, bravery and vision of this place is a grand epic. There are so many attributes - the people in this land - that I am hopeful about resolutions to the problems they face.

Contrasts

If Jerusalem is a city of cats, Tel Aviv is a city for dogs and their owners. If Jerusalem is ancient with history that spirals, Tel Aviv is so new that it has photographs of nearly everything since it started (one exception being Canaanite ruins 2500BCE - but they have nothing to do with this city). If in Jerusalem one hears Arabic frequently, in Tel Aviv it is French, German, English etc along with Hebrew. Museums in Jerusalem invariably have religious themes - in
Tel Aviv the message is the building of Israel. Jerusalem is glowing sandstone exteriors; Tel Aviv has 2000+ Bauhaus residential buildings - in 1900 there were 3,000 residents. By 1930 there were 30,000! The Bauhaus/International Style is omnipresent - and provides the backround new construction. Tel Aviv University is a palate for 20th C architectural giants. Old Jerusalem wraps up its activities soon after dark; I've been told you can dance and party in Tel Aviv all night - I've heard the music. Galleries and graffiti, house museums of authors and poets, creativity is close at hand. Both cities are worth visiting, for sure. They give expression to dualities that challenge the people in this land.

A Nearly Perfect Day

Shabbat in Tel Aviv - no buses running, only the sheruts/cabs and streets are quiet. I headed for the Art Museum, found the impressive building, paid my fee and viewed many Impressionist and modern Israeli paintings, sculpures and installations. Tension and life! Accessible and challenging. Just before the museum closed, I bought a piece of cheesecake - and walking back to the hostel, stopped in a park to eat. It was like a fantasy: trees, flowers, blue sky, swifts darting high, pigeons, a pond: couples conversing, riding bikes, boys playing noisily with a ball,a toddler throwing pebbles into the water, a gentleman throwing bread to the carp and turtles, attendant with an elderly person in a wheelchair, a man pushing a stroller, and a couple that greeted me "Shabbat Shalom" and sat next to me on the bench. I think this was a view of the Good Life - like an interactive art installment.
I came back to my room, changed into my swimsuit and headed 2 blocks to the beach. The water was warmish and I could bob and relax - no big waves.
As I walked back into the hostel, the girl at the desk said I had a call from my son - "Hi Mom - let's get Clarissa on the phone and sing Happy Birthday to her!" which is what we did. About as close to a perfect day as I can imagine.

Jaffa/Yafo/Joppa

Another beautiful day - up to 24 C. From Greek mythology (Perseus rescues Andromeda) to Jonah being swallowed by a fish after leaving this port, Jaffa has ancient history. It was the seaport between Alexandria on Africa's northern shore and the East/Orient. It was fought over and conquered by Egypt in 1468 BCE when soldiers hid in clay pots/ gifts to the Princess brought inside the city walls. King David took it around 1000 BCE from the Philistines, and it was the main Judean port until King Herod built Cesarea. The Apostle Peter had a vision here about inclusion of Gentiles/lifting dietary laws. Crusaders made an appearance in the 12th C.; Napoleon arrived around 1800 and was given hospitality by a Jewish family - but for most of modern history, this was an Arab city. Jews left here to start Tel Aviv - but in 1948 many Arabs fled conflict and the ruined area was officially made part of Tel Aviv's municipality. In the late 1960's a restoration was begun and the rundown ruins transformed into today's artist/tourist/residential area along the Mediterranean. I joined a guided tour by a city resident who loves the mixture of people and the redevlopment efforts. She took our group through back alleys and opened our eyes to historic features. I stayed in the port and had a lovely fish dinner; walked down to the regentrification area in Adjamai; visited the Franciscan Church; admired the art in public places and enjoyed this place that so many have coveted. Evidently a multi-millionaire Muslim family from here exports pita bread to Massachusetts. So many cultural connections! I walked back to my hostel along the sea - got my swimsuit and went swimming/wave bobbing - ahhh.

Haifa - II

As I was saying, there is a cave in the church under the altar - Elijah's cave for Christians(...also by tradition a place where the holy family with Jesus hid from King Herod). But my guide book said that Elijah's cave was down the hill, so I started walking on a rough path - and lo and behold, the Jewish site of Elijah's cave! There were several members of the Jewish faith praying, men on one side and women on the other - this is one of the holiest sites in Israel, and it is hard to find. Then I went looking for the "Clandestine Immigration and Navy Museum" at the foot of the mountain (having planned to get out of the sun and learn about Israel in its own words) but because I was not with a group and could not speak Hebrew - the young men at the door asked for my passport - which was in Tel Aviv - and I was not able to enter the museum. I was very disappointed, as my guidebook had not suggested a problem like this. I caught a bus, wandered around trying to find the Bahai Gardens - THE tourist destination in Haifa - and finally found them/ 18 beautifully groomed terraces/ I was standing at the bottom and decided not to go into the ground, just peak through the fence. Decided to eat lunch and regroup - went to a restaurant in the German Colony (buildings constructed by Christian German Zionists who came to Palestine in the late 1800's beinging improved methods of transportation and agriculture to the land). Asked at the Tourist Office if the University museam was within walking distance, and the staff person laughed at me - "It will be closed by the time you get there!" and then turned to answer someone else's question. O K A Y Somehow I was missing Haifa's charm. So I decided to try one more thing - take the Carmelit/funicular/metro to the high class district on the mountaintop for the view of the harbor and coastline. It was striking - amd I decided to walk down and down and down, which was interesting for the architecture and obvious Russian Jewish area I was passing through. Closer to the harbor,the housing is very poor - mostly Arab Christians, I think. Tired but satisfied, I took the train and bus back to the hostel. A day in Haifa was enough.

Haifa

Haifa is a newer city - 19th C. many buildings, 20th C. for the port. But like everywhere else, it has an ancient past. I spent the day there, beginning with a train ride up the coast from Tel Aviv - about $7. Then got a taxi to the top of Mt. Carmel - of biblical fame as the place where Elijah hid in a cave from Queen Jezebel - this would be 3,500+ years ago. So those early Christians decided to come here and become hermits (12th C. Crusader era), but the Christian pilgrims wouldn't leave them alone - so they started a monastery for hospitality and became the Order of Carmelites - which had a rugged time when the Turks came into power and destroyed the chapel; which was rebuilt in time to extend hospitality to Napoleon in 1799 - but he lost - so the monastery was destroyed again. The current building dates to
1836. Sorry - it looks like the computer can't figure out if I am typing Engish or Hebrew.

Next stage

I am feeling hopeful now - and sorry that I have missed blogging for a few days - no access to computer. Now I am in Tel Aviv, and my travelling companions these past 10 days have scattered, but not without making plans to work for an end to the military occupation of the West Bank. We spent several days talking with Israelis who we can support.
"Combatants for Peace" is a growing organization of men and women, former members of the Israeli Defense Force and the Palestanian resistance who no longer believe force will bring a solution. They are creative, energetic and committed to doing things a new way. Their stories are poignant.
We met Palestinians who have been evicted from their homes, articulate women from a neighborhood that borders a growing Orthodox Jewish area in East Jerusalem (disputed territory). About 16 families have recently been affected on two streets - they had been up-rooted from their homes in West Jerusalem in 1948 and the Jordanians gave them these houses. They were forcibly moved, their furniture taken out, and that same day settlers moved in. We attended a demonstration in support of their cause, attended by about 200 - I held a sign in Hebrew saying "Stop Israeli policies that are racist." This particular location is organized every Friday, so the police, IDF, displaced persons, and demonstrators know the routine. Young boys come and sell beverages. The crowd is orderly, all ages, lots of international included. I talked to two Israelis that had formerly lived in Ohio! They both believe the house-grab actions taken by their goverment are wrong. I also talked to a diplomat and a Fulbright scholar - quite a mix of people seeking change.
Jeff Halper of the Israeli Committee Against Housing Demolitions took us on a walking tour of an older Jewish neighborhood, explaining Zionist motives and history. Then we heard a riveting 2 hour overview by an economist about how Israel's policies have intensified every decade since the 6-day war (1967)- and the expense of the occupation both to Israel and the international community - I kid you not, he made it interesting! After supper, an artist/psycho-therapist who helped organize "Women in Black" talked to us about the way the Israeli activists support one another. These women have held weekly vigils since 1993 and also been observers at check points.
The Presbyterian General Assembly will take up these issues in July, and I know this trip has given me valuable insights to share.

Military Occupation

What is it like in the West Bank where the Israel military controls the largest proportion of the territory - Area C? (Area A - under Palestine Authority totally; Area B - under Palestine civic governance but Israel oversight; Area C - Israel military control- according to the Oslo Accords). Jewish Israeli citizens must have a pass to enter, and few bother to come over the border from Israel - unless they are assigned as military personnel. Commerce is extremely difficult. Whenever stopped by the military, Palestinian citizens must be able to produce a paper showing they have a reason to be there even if it is their home. To go from one community to another means passing military checkpoints - and one can be detained for quite a while with no reason given. Any breaking of military law is subject to military detention and military courts. Any portion of the land can be closed off for security reasons at any time. If one is Palestinian, one must receive permission for any housing construction/addition - and this is frequently denied. If one is Palestinian, one must be able to show proof of ownership of the land - with documents - from before 1948. If this is missing, the military can clear the land by demolishing any construction and sell if to a Jewish family. Seldom are Palestinians allowed to buy new property; sometimes Palestinians sell to a third party and only later learn that it is being inhabited by Israeli settlers. Large tracts of land are consolidated and developed for Israeli settlers, some of whom move into nicely constructed "settlements" for economic advantage - and some of whom move to odd locations within Arab communities for ideological reasons. Settlements are strategically established to surround East Jerusalem and constrict Arab towns. Every settler is entitled to security protection by the IDF - Israel Defense Force - who will do nothing if a settler is disturbing the peace or trespassing on Palestinian land. Many settlements are provided with special roads that will take them into Jerusalem/Israel without passing through Palestinian settlements, and land/houses are taken from Palestinians to accomodate this. Sometimes these road cut through a Palestinian village, and the local people are not allowed on them - they can be detained. If a village is Bedouin, it will not have government-provided schools or health care. No permanent buildings are permitted - all have demolition orders. Water and electricity may be provided to a nearby Israeli settlement - but none will be made available to the Bedouins. Are you getting a picture? Everything possible is being done to keep a growing number of Israeli settlements (illegal according to international law) separate from the Palestinian population. The reality on the ground is bizarre, almost unbelievable. There is no balance of power, no equality. A Palestinian cannot fly out of Ben Gurion airport; they have to go into Jordan. If they need medical care in Jerusalem, they have to get an authorized pass to travel there...sometimes too late. Students who must pass through checkpoints will be late for class; many have lost jobs because of travel difficulties and not getting permits renewed.
If you want to know more, send me a comment or email and I'll suggest some webpages, including the UN. Look at a map of Israel - the "disputed territory" is where Palestinians and President Obama and I/human rights advocates want to end the occupation.

Palestinian voices

I am about to report on two VERY FULL days of visits with individuals who are strong advocates for justice. The last person was Sam Bahour, an American born in Youngstown, Ohio, who is Palestinian, married to a Palestinian, with two teen girls and all live in Ramallah. He is a business consultant and realist/writer on relations with America. He has been a force in economic development and is a supporter of a growing international movement for boycott, divestment from Israel companies until the occupation of the West Bank is ended. Now that was a loaded sentence and phrases I've learned about during trips into Palestinian cities and the countryside.
We visited Ata who lives close to settlers who regularly threaten his family. We visited the Christian Peacemakers Team in the Old City of Hebron - and my eyes could pick out the ring of settlements (400 Jewish settlers embedded in a city of many thousands). Then we heard from two family members who have set up a Tent of Nations on the top of a hill (their family land), for a children's camp and touchpoint for internationals who wish to show solidarity with peace and justice. Tired as we were, the conversation with Sami Awad, Director of the Holy Land Trust, was riveting as he talked about leadership and community empowerment and understanding the needs of the "other side." In no case was hatred for Jews evident - but identifying political practices of Israel that are destructive to Palestinian people and telling firsthand stories of incredible inequity - yes, I too will call the conditions in the West Bank an occupation by a foreign power.
On Wednesday (today) we went to Ramallah which is a cultural and political center for Palestinians. We heard from Defense for Chilren International about children in prison, recruited as informants, and used as shields for soldiers. Again settler violence was described and depicted in film. And we met with a PLO staff person in the Negotiating Support Unit - to hear about and ask questions about PLO perspectives and dynamics. This fellow was born in Australia from refugee Palestinian parents. The men who have returned to this country to serve are very impressive and persuasive. What they say reinforces what we have seen.

Bethlehem - different perspective

I have the good fortune to be in Bethlehem to learn a second time. I did walk into the historic church and lay my hand at the spot which is venerated as the birthplace of Jesus. I have also seen historic photos of this place, and realize it was really a small village, with donkeys and camels and simple people stirring around 150+ years ago - long after the orthodox religious folks began minding the place. The blowing dust is impressive today - blotting out the vistas. I also had time to wander, to get bandages purchased by the piece from a roll, to shop at the women's embroidery cooperative, and see the Lutheran Church which is a mission partner with Ohio Valley Presbytery.
But then there's the other part of the day: students from Bethlehem University speaking about the difficulties of paying fees and getting to class from Jerusalem throught the checkpoint. A professor said - if they are late - don't blame everything onthe occupation! In other words, you know to start early from home, to adapt, to be strong. The university has a heritage exhibit/collection to remind young people that Palestinian heritage is rich with art and versatility. Some of the impressive art is on the wall surrounding the city, making it an "open prison." Sometimes the wall separated a shop owner from his home - always it cut off customers.Our broup met the director of BADIL, a refugee advocacy NGO and heard about their sense that justice will only come through one democratic nation, where all can share land and resources. Most Palesinian refugees live in the diaspora - beyond the borders of the WEst Bank. We visited some who are second and third generation in Dheisheh Refugee Camp -set up by the UN after 1948. It is regularly entered by IDF - Israeli Defense Forces. Unemployment is 60% In an area set up initially for temporary tents, there are now 13,000 residents - the larges of 3 refugee camps in Bethlehem's territory. It is sobering and also inspiring - as the people build new stories on their homes for expanding family - and children attend school - and people walked along with our hosts and greeted us, perhaps glad they are not forgotten by the internationals...as we are called here. There were flowers planted, water tanks shared, and graffiti naming young men in prison who are remembered.

Jerusalem with different eyes

I have successfully met up with my travelling companions for the next phase of my travels. This is a group led by a Brit who works with the Israel Committee Against Housing Demolitions (there is an ICAHD US affiliate also). There are 12 of us from the US, Wales, England - one other Presbyterian (layperson from Santa Barbara), all interested in getting an up-close view of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, most have human rights background, most have not been in Israel before. We got settled into our Bethlehem hotel and heard from the manager about the flux in tourism - their #1 income source - according to political realities. This city is on the southeast doorstep of Jerusalem, but it is separated and nearly encircled by the (in)famous wall. I have a nice room, and meals are served on the top 4th floor with panoramic views of the area.
We began the day at the headquarters of ICAHD- and then walked through the Old City looking at the intentional placement of Jewish settlements in the Muslim Quarter. The history of the Jewish Quarter and the economics of the Old City are complex too. After lunch, we looked over the city at the winding wall and our guide talked about rationales for the zigging boundary - keep the most land in West Jerusalem and the least Palestinians, basically the larger strategy in line drawing. Saw the contrast of basic city services in West and East Jerusalem, also drowe into a settlement for a look/ quite modern and landscaped. One country or two? Arguments for both - sorry, I'm pretty tired and there was a whole lot of information to absorb. Fortunately, I have materials to bring home. We had a Palestinian dinner at the site where a Palestinian home has been demolished three times...and heard from the landowners. It is next to a Bedouin encampment, on the edge of Anata...a very poor Muslim town, which the prophet Jeremiah called home. His word from God seems to apply: I am not interested in your sacrifices when justice is not done to the poor. A very rich day of uncovering another layer.

Traveling

Finished at the dig site - have a certificate to prove it! which is helpful when the security at the airport ask what you've been doing in Israel. I took a taxi to the bus station in Tiberias - the driver wanted to drive me all the way to Tel Aviv airport for 400 NIS then 200 NIS - about $40 - special price - so he could pick up new arrivals there - but of course, I am not yet leaving the country. Caught a bus to Jerusalem. The country is so small (about the land mass of Massachusetts) that I recognize some familiar landmarks along the highways. The typical route goes around the West Bank; at one point the dividing wall is visible and I counted 11 minarets in the town on the other side. I am glad that I didn't try to rent a car - it's expensive and I haven't grasped the local rules - such as why police were casually patrolling with their lights flashing. On the toll roads, they photograph the license plate and bill by mail - no stopping. The Egged buses are very nice, air-conditioned, travelled by families and old and young people, foreigners and orthodox Jews, and lots of soldiers who show a pass and ride for free - with their rifles. The only problem is that around 5 p.m. on Friday they stop running because of Shabbat - until Saturday evening. Because I am meeting my next travel group on Saturday at 5 p.m. - I had to get to Jerusalem today, even though there wouldn't be much to see - because of Shabbat! I have had an easy day and picked up supper early at a market. No complaints. My room is in the Old City, and I have been people watching. By the time you mix customary dress of Orthodox Jews and Orthodox Christians with Muslims and modern teens, it's fascinating.

Dig III

Today I spent my time washing pottery - getting the dirt off piece by piece by scrubbing with a brush. It is done one bucket at a time; each bucket is tagged according to its location at the dig; most of the fragments are pottery shards but mixed in and sorted are bits of bone, shells, terrazo/mosaic or marble pieces of flooring, and occasionally a coin. The latter are placed in plastic bags and labeled. The pottery is soaked in water overnight, so this is a cool job sitting in the shade playing with water and mud. My favorite piece was a hunk of a Roman lamp.
There are people entering data into computers, bagging and sorting the few pottery pieces that will be saved. making drawings, and marking out the grid with surveying instruments for the next phase - which goes next week and then this fall. It seems a slow, labor intensive process. I will always appreciate in a new way the "ruins" I see in the future.
For the archeologists, the pottery is a language. It tells the approximate age of a dig level - our square in the site was lowered each day by 10-15 cm - the dirt sifted in one bucket out of 5. We did find a hunk of romanesque cornice, but then nothing more. Other squares found walls, flooring and architectural details. The site director thinks this was the courtyard area of a mosque. Finally the dirt was not sifted and at day's end our particular square hole was shut down.
There's an egret rookery off in the distance, white birds clustered in a couple trees. Two hungry female dogs wandered through - they have litters somewhere. Only portions of the site will be preserved; places like this are discovered in so many parts of Israel, whenever sewer lines or foundations for new buildings are being dug. Tiberias literally has pieces of pillars and Crusader era walls strewn about in every direction...tangible proof of powers that have come and gone. I find it humbling.

Field trip

Wednesday afternoon - the whole group headed by taxi around the south end of the Sea of Galilee - across the Jordan River (which is about 15 feet wide here) - up the dry hillside to the ruins of Sucita (Hyppos) - one of the decopolis, established originally as a Greek/Roman administrative center for the region. More recently, this was a military outpost for the Israeli army from 1948-1967 when Israel secured the Golan Heights. (I think if the US ARmy were stationed on top of ancient ruins, there wouldn't be much left to see - no offense). The original Roman roads, cistern and water system, reused remnants from temples that were incorporated into 4 byzantine churches (5-6th C.) and lots of interesting archeological elements are just sitting around, no security, no fence except to keep visitors away from potential mine fields. Great birds, strange plants. It's really incredible - pillars of granite hauled up the mountain, coming all the way from Egypt. Human beings do impressive work when they are determined. This town would have existed in Jesus' time - but we know of no connection with him. However, the winding road does connect the Sea of Galilee with Damascus - so perhaps Paul's encounter with Jesus occurred somewhere along this route.
Wednesday evening - lovely dinner, well-seasoned food - I skipped the salad bar - at the Scot Hotel. Rev. Colin kept the conversation interesting - comparing his assignment in Tiberias with his prior pastorate in Zambia. Memorable to be served on the outdoor patio by staff he knew by name.
Tiberias is in a great setting, except it is HOT already - I can't imagine it in July. While there are many Orthodox Jews who vacation here, it has a very secular feel with the tourist venues, shops, and eateries. It would feel quite isolated before the invention of the auto/bus due to the mountains ringing the lake.

Dig - Day II

4:30 a.m. came WAY too early today, but the birds are up and a nice breeze is blowing in from the Sea of Galilee, across the street form the hotel and the dig. I again mostly sifted and emptied buckets of dirt into a wheelbarrow. But I also got to handle coins including a quarter - a 1/4 piece of cut coin. In our square after much work - a lot by the Arab Israeli hired help - we discovered a buried cornice with Roman-era decor. It's comparable to the thrill of the hunt! Had an interesting conversation with a Greek Orthodox theology student - their New Testament is not translated... Also got a tour of the lay-out of our excavation - which is probably a mosque/ on top of one of the 16 synagogues that were one time in Tiberias. When Rome expelled the Jews from Jerusalem @ 110 AD, the Sanhedrin met here - and the city was about 40,000 (same as today). Okay - enough of that - It's just that I visited one of the synagogue ruins this afternoon with a great mosaic floor, featuring a zodiac with Hebrew labels with a Greek deity in the center - is that crazy?
There have been tourists to the hot springs since before Joshua entered the Promised Land. It's why Herod Antiapas built Tiberius here in 20 AD. So in honor of that rich heritage, I spent a couple hours at the modern Hot Springs - two warm pools and one normal, overlooking the waterfront. In general, it was another world though I did hear one person speak English. Relaxing, humm, will sleep well tonight. I hope you do too!

First day at a dig

There are 12 volunteers and 4 staff at our worksite which is sponsored by Hebrew University. We begin the day at 5 a.m. in the restaurant with cake and coffee and then walk to the site. Watching the sun rise over the Sea of Galilee was a beautiful experience. As a novice, it took me a bit of time to fit in. I ended up mostly sifting - which means that as a floor is dug up and the fill put in buckets, Matt and I sift 1 bucket out of 4, looking for pieces of pottery, glass, bone and shells. (Matt is my 7th Day Adventist friend.) Then we wheelbarrow the remains away. The staff measure and photograph every level; another volunteer makes drawings, another washes, counts and sorts the found pieces. There are 3 "rooms" of a mosque from the Byzantine period; I handled pottery from Roman times - I started out energetically - but was very grateful for the breakfast break at 9 a.m. and the fruit break at 11:30 and the ending at 1 p.m. by which time I was mostly observing..though I did help pick up tools. It's very warm, windy and sunny. I do remember walking back to the hotel and can say that having a cool shower waiting was my incentive. I'm beat!!!
My room has beds for three, a kitchenette, a balcony and Television - so come and visit me! Finally caught up on some news from the U.S. (exposives in Time Square, oil slick in the Gulf). Nothing bad from Ohio or Indiana... sending my love and prayers to you.

Sunday - amazing people

I really did think about going to churcc, and I did start the day with breakfast at the table with a Southern Baptist pastor, wife and two young sons who stayed at the same hostel. We had a very lively, cordial conversation - he stammered quite noticeably and I learned that he now teaches religion courses on-line for a living and is quite happy with the arrangement. They were all cheerful and happy to be heading to Jerusalem that day. I, on the other hand, had engaged a guide to drive me to Megiddo - the hill and site of at least 30 settlements from the stone age onward...and the biblical location for the ultimate fight between good and evil aka Armegeddon. Not exactly a cheerful theme, but interesting nonetheless for the conquerors who had come and gone at this hill, the last being about 500 years ago. This excavation is considered the cradle of biblical archeology, since digging began here in the 1920's. My Arab Christian guide let me wander - this is a national park - and picked me up at the other end after I had descended 280 steps through the water system - this being the reason human beings settled here in the first place.
Gabi the Gude has a brother named Pele - because the great soccer player Pele visited Nazareth, his father met him, and promised to name his first son after the athlete. They love socccer, wake up at odd times in the night to watch the World Cup on TV - and soccer is why so many Brasilian flags are flying in Nazareth.
I managed to haul my gear on the bus and arrive safely at my next hotel in Tiberias. Taking to the shoreline, I strolled past the Scottish church just as the pastor was walking out. Rev. Colin responded to my question - where is the famous Scot (5-star) Hotel by taking me to the grounds and showing me around. Then we had a cup of tea...and we have a "date" for dinner on Wednesday in the ritzy restaurant. He also said that the person who manages Nazareth Village was in town - She and I and my guide Nancy from there had a very delightful conversation in the watch tower of the hotel (the facility was originally a hospital). That provided additional insight into the Nazareth scene.
At 6:45 the people working on the dig this week hiked out to the site and had a bonfire and (strange) supper of potatoes, tomatoes, pita, etc. and I sat between a youth pastor from Canada who is in seminary and a Seventh Day Adventist medical school student from N. Carolina. We talked with Katarina, an 18-year old Portuguese (literally) world traveller who had just come to Israel by way of Nepal and India. She speaks fluent English because her dad is English. One more person to add to the day Carrie, a 64-year old resident of Jerusalem who grew up in Chicago and came to this country in 1968 to join a kibbutz and never left. So you can understand that Israel is a magnet for all kinds of people - a beautiful mixed salad!

Akko - Crusader's city

On the Mediterranean coast is an ancient city - Akko or Acre as it was known to the Crusaders. Google it if you want to know the history. I went to see it by bus from Nazareth on Friday - an interesting route through several small towns - many displaying rooftop flags of various nationalities...a lot of Brazilians around! Back to Akko, the Old City is a UNESCO Heritage Site. It is walled, fortified with a massive citadel built when the Crusaders used it for their headquarters. It fell into disuse, filled with sand, and was reinhabited by Al-Jasser, an Arab caliph some 200 years ago. The surface has buildings he had constructed to build up his wealth and authority - including a turkish bathhouse. Underneath, the Crusader fortifications have been "discovered" and dug out in more recent years, along with an extensive tunnel system. A huge hospital for crusaders was established, to care for the ill after their long trip and the injured from fighting. The determination of powerful men to leave their mark is incredible. Napolean was defeated here so never got a foothold Palestine. Later some large rooms were used by the British to hold Jewish rebels prior to 1948... so fighting in subsequent generations is commemorated, but today its a rather dusty, harbor town - with people living in the history for real. An art gallery, the fishing boats, a good shwarma sandwich and fresh citrus drink, catching the return bus by 2:45 because of Shabbat - the buses stop at sunset. A rather wierd experience, all in all.

Nazareth II

It has become a luxury to have extended time in Nazareth - not so many tourist buses here, though plenty of souvenir vendors. Breakfast included pita pizza/ cheese, herbs, vegetables and an omlet, coffee, fruit, olives/hummus. Most of the sites of interest are in walking distance - tried the local sweets - yummy. A place called Nazareth Village has been developed in the past 10 years (I had visions of Bible school) but it is effective in a quietly researches and authentic way - the actors are, after all, local men, women and children. The location belongs to the English-founded hospital and is adjacent to the YMCA and is established by local people (and a foundation in Mishewaka, Indiana!) The scenes are related to parables - winnowing wheat, a wime press, the carpenter's house, etc. The man who had the idea noticed that many tourists were coming to town looking for a way to connect with Jesus - and only saw the fancy churches and middle eastern architecture - so here is his idea, well researched, and not pushing any particular flavor of Christianity.
I also found the synagogue/church - where a Byzantine church was built over the site of the oldest synagogue - maybe a location for Jesus' sermon where "a prophet is not accepted in his own town." He was, after all, the son of Joseph, so the townspeople did not expect him to say that prophecies were fulfilled in their hearing."
The Fauzi Azar Inn, where I am staying, is managed by a young man who has helped establish The Jesus Trail - a four-day walk between Nazareth and Capernaum on the Sea of Galilee - they can transport luggage and arrange low-cost accomodations along the route. If I'd known about it earlier, I think I would have given it a try. Something about walking along streams, through fields on a marked trail, with the wildlife, is appealing in the springtime.
So I'm glad I did not miss Nazareth. This evening will be cool and relaxed. I am sleeping on a lower bunk in a "mixed" dorm with 10 beds. Earplugs come in handy. The bathroom is clean and convenient. The price is right.

Nazareth I

I can imagine Jesus growing up here. There are caves and hills - but no more sheep. About 70,000 people live here now - in the 1st century, it was just a tiny village. The population is 30% Christian - many related to the holy sites. 70% muslim. On the other side of the hill is a new Jewish section of town. The Church of the Annunciation is the largest in the Middle East - and it is a conglomeration of images and styles, incorporating the grotto where tradition says the Gabriels visited Mary to announce Jesus' pending birth. I toured and later went to a service with so much incense, you wouldn't believe! I stayed here two nights in a fine room - sharing the dinner tables with a French-speaking group from Belgium. The Convent has rooms for guests, teaches students with disabilities, and is caretaker for a 1st C. Herodian tomb excavation - one of the best examples of a typical tomb from that time anywhere! So I toured it with the French group - probably missed the finer points, but did see where the sign of the fish was etched in the rock.
Back to Mary - there is a lot of attention to her in this town - and a St. Joseph Church too at the traditional site of his carpenter shop - but nothing original remains except dirt and rock - the edifaces are 19th-20th century when Europeans got interested in the Holy Land. Still fun to be up on the roof at night, feel the breeze, see the moon, think about Jesus growing up here - and the Greek town Sepporis was just over the hill.

Moving on

So the time at St. George's College is ended. We had a bus trip to Emmaus for a place to celebrate the Lord's Supper - looking over the roads that lead 6 miles back to the city. Here (it's one of 4 traditional locations) Jesus became known to two disciples after the resurrection - in the breaking of the bread. Our travel group - all Christians - indeed has formed a sense of community and Jesus' presence with us.
Not to be all serious, we had a talent show at 5 p.m. with many spoofs of our leaders as well as "talent." As an example, one of the Welsh ladies and I led the singing of "Kookabourrouh sits in the old gum tree" - we were delighted that such a silly song spans the continents! Our group - mainly Cincinnati folks - included 2 Canadians, 2 New Zealanders, 2 UK citizens...40 of us in all.
By amazing good fortune, one of our leaders has arranged for me to spend two days with the Sisters of Nazareth - and a chance to see excavations in that town as well as the churches. I don't know if I will have access to a computer. AFter that I go to Haifa for a couple days before the DIG in Tiberias.
This morning I went to the Rockefeller Museum, established in the 1930's as a repository for ancient artifacts - and I mean ancient - like 200,000 BCE! Ice Age humans... Egyptian influence in the land of Canaan - 19th Dynasty/Ramses III and then the more recent 3000 years. Puts a different slant on time. The most important holdings of this museum have been moved to the Israel Museum - but those exhibits were closed at this time.

In Jesus' Footsteps

We have completed the pathway that pilgrims have been taking for centuries - the Via Dolorosa. I had a picture in my mind of how this would be...it was a dark and narrow scene in my imagination. Maybe because we got up early and started our way at 6 a.m. the trail of 14 stations of the cross was worshipful, comforting, light-filled stretching of the heart... and the materials we used alongside scripture very definitely connected Jesus' suffering to that of people in the world today. We made a peaceful procession; unexpectedly, at one point I was carrying the wooden cross from one station to the next. We assigned readings ahead of time but cross carrying was spontaneous, as was the singing of simple songs such as "Were You There." The Old City of Jerusalem is built many feet above its level in Jesus' day, so we were not literally on the path from the Roman court to Golgotha. But those Good Friday events did happen in this area, and I am grateful to those various Christians who are faithful to maintain the sites. It is a spiritual path amidst shops, children headed for school, other tourists, carts laden with goods - winding its way through everyday life.

Tomb or Resurrection?

Same church, two names depending on perspective... we spent virtually all our group time today (except meals) in this magnificent Christian pilgrimage destination - with a real aficionado as our guide. Canon John Peterson is known in Episcopalian circles. He had us imagining missing walls (from Queen Mother Helena's church built over the place where she discovered parts of The Cross in the 300's) because that ediface was completely destroyed. Rock quary (the site of Golgotha) lies under the whole thing. We saw the monument/shrine adored as Jesus' tomb (empty, of course), and discussed the funerary practices of 1st Century Jews. It was crowded and filled with incense and imposing arches, pillars, thick walls, and domes - interesting art too. Overload for this Presbyterian but interesting too as a site where ancient Christian groups are still represented today. So which would you expect to visit: the Church of the Sepulchre or Church of the Resurrection?
A nice stop for refreshments afterward at the American Colony Hotel - one of "1001 things to see before you die" - checked off that one!

Sunday

Churches, churches everywhere - how does one decide? I went to the post office to exchange some money (no commission - fun to figure out the lines and process)- then wandered into the Old City. I ended up at the Franciscan Church of the Condemnation (second station on the Via Dolorosa) in the Chapel of Flagellation (marking the venerated place where Jesus was whipped as he carried the cross) - and joined a group from Singapore having a mass in English. This is a normal kind of juxtaposition here.
The theme for this 4th Sunday of Eastertide was The Good Shepherd and praying for clergy and seminarians, so I felt rather blessed. A young man asked if I were going forward to receive communion, and I said "No, I'm Protestant" so he handed me his camera and asked if I would take his picture when he received the cup - and I obliged.
After prayers and benediction - and a lovely rendition of "Amazing Grace," I decided to find a hostel and make a reservaton for May 7 when I return to Jerusalem later. I like the place called Petra - no problem was the clerk's reply to all my inquiries.
Lunch was back at St. George's College and then we headed for the town of Ein Karem, at the western edge of the city -an artsy little town connected with the birth of John the Baptist/Foreunner. We stopped to see two churches there which felt very European - and are more recently constructed than most we have visited. The murals and adornments honored Elizabeth and Mary meeting, and then there was the cave where John was born - it happened somewhere and it is good to remember that John and Jesus had real Jewish mothers.
Our pilgrimage was highlighted by stopping at a gelato stand - mint and halvah, two dips for me. We are now starting to recognize landmarks as we drive past - the Kenneset, the controversial Holyland apartment development, areas we have shopped, eaten, and visited. Back at home base, we met to get instructions for checking out, going home, not to draw attention to ourselves at the airport, etc...a reminder that we only have two more full days here.

Israel Museum

It is crisp and sunny in Jerusalem. It is also shabbat - the Jewish Sabbath - so buses do not run. Taxis - mostly driven by Muslim Arabs - do operate. Our group had an entirely free day to scatter and do what we wanted. 9 of us had not yet seen the Israel Museum (whihc is closed for rennovation except for the Dead Sea Scrolls exhibition and a 1:50 scale model of the city in 66 CE) so we called a van and away we went.
The model is extraordinary, based on the Bible, archeology, and historians of the time such as Josepheus...and much of what we had seen in ruins now makes more sense. What it doesn't have, of course, are any church buildings. What it does have are palaces, fortifications, and Greek influenced complexes.
The special architecture for the display of a small portion of the Dead Sea Scrolls is quite striking. These are the documents found at Qumran - hidden by the Essenes - a Jewish sect active before and during the time of Jesus (probably influential with John the Baptist). Portions of the scrolls often tour around the world - I saw fragments in Akron a few years ago. The Israel Museum is the current custodian - and they are stored in a secret place, for they are the oldest copies of scripture in existence (referring to our Old Testament, especially the Isaiah scroll is complete). I wandered with an English speaking secular Jewish guide. It was satisfying to connect the displayed artifacts with our earlier visit to Qumran.
Enough of museums - I next headed to the Old City for lunch - I think in the Armenian Quarter, watched a demonstration, wandered through the souq (market), ran into some other students from my tour gourp - and we wanted to visit The King David Hotel - where world leaders stay when they come to town. We had dessert on the back patio, in the shade overlooking tennis courts and the swimming pool...one of 1001 places to visit in the world according to someone who wrote a book.
Relaxing now until dinner. This evening we have a local Jewish guest speaker about the Israel/Palestine issues - housing demolitions, settlements, water rights, etc. Should keep us all awake because the group is not of one mind on these things.

Churches and more

This day is devoted to "The Paschal Journey." At 8 a.m. we boarded the bus to head for the Mount of Olives - which is now a huge burial area for deceased Jews who wish to be the first to rise when the Messiah comes. There are also remnants of Byzantine crypts and ossuaries - bone containers that were in use during the 2nd Temple period (Jesus' lifetime)...hence a recent controversy over someone claiming to have a box with his name on it - no way to prove it/ not likely. There is a chapel called "Dominus Flevit" which means "the Lord wept" when he looked over the city. That seems like a reasonable reaction, considering the division of East Jerusalem (part of Jordan until 1967) from West. A former mosque, it is simple and dedicated to peace. A clergy couple from our group led a reflection on tears.
We walked down to the garden of Gethsemane - which used to stretch along this whole section but now is limited to a yard surrounding the Church of All Nations - ancient olive trees in the garden, herbs and roses in all their glory. The church is impressive with lavendar stained-glass windows and many tourists.
Then we headed for Mt. Zion, which is a disputed area - and one chapel devoted to the setting of the Lord's Supper is under Jewish jurisdiction! The German-sponsored Church of Domition - that is, the place where Mary sleeps, has two floors of incredible chapels given by many nationalities. Mary is venerated here - and it did not seem overdone. A nnice gift shop too - and I spent about $20 - then left my package accidently someplace....
Nearby is the church: St. Peter in Gallicantu - quite possibly located above prisoner holding cells, adjacent to Roman steps that would have connected the Upper Room with the Garden of Gethsemane. It all becomes tangible, connected, even an excavation suggesting the site of High Priest Caiphas' House - as all this is in the shadow of the Old City walls. The art of story telling with mosaics is not lost - as Peter's denial of Jesus is depicted...with other scenes in the sanctuary.
So much....to ponder. AFter lunch, I decided to shop near the college and replace what I had lost and then some. Around the corner is an Arab grocery with spices and chocolate eclairs! Also an Armenian ceramics factory and store. So this day covered both ends of the spectrum and then some. Time to rest.

Free Day in Jerusalem

Now I am catching up with this blog - if you want to see pictures of the place I'm staying, go to www.sgcjerusalem.com the website for St. George's College.
Today it rained! and was cooler. Several of us set out to try the bus system - which the local population seems to use effortlessly. It's 6.2 NIS for a ride and a transfer. I went to Yad Vashom, which is the Holocaust Museum. Striking architecture that helps tell the story, lots of photos and information - and saddness and remembrance. I spent about 4 hours; there were seats in most rooms and it was a meditation time.
Then I ventured out further west in the steep hills to see Chagall windows at the big hospital - and they were closed during construction - a disappointment. So I wandered back via a different bus and ended getting off when it seemed to veer in the "wrong" direction. Within 10 minutes I encountered others from my group, and we happily traipsed through a chic shopping mall with lots of contemporary outdoor art - and headed back to the college. Great supper, fine conversation! Hope all is well with you too! Now resting my feet.

Galilee III

Our third day in Galilee began with a trip to Bethshean - an Israeli national park and a great surprise - 18 levels of cities in the Tel (the hill)dating from 3000BC,mentioned in Egyptian texts from 2000 BC, and a "friendly" well-signed archeological site where I could actually walk on Roman and Byzantine roads. With reconstructed walls, the baths, theater, shops and houses were identified - and it was beautiful. I think what struck me is that I had never heard of this place which had at one time been so important for commerce, worship and governance. No New Testament references here either - but it would have been known.
And from there we passed into the "disputed territory" occupied since 1967 and went to Jericho - not a "pretty" archeological dig but the work there since the 1950's has uncovered clay walls and artifacts indicating humans residing here 10,000 years ago - the oldest continually inhabited city on earth! Folks in Jesus' time passed through Jericho to get to Jerusalem from Galilee - and avoid Samaria.
After a delicious traditional Middle Eastern meal - we headed up to a very high vantage point (now we were close to the area where the Jordan River empties into the Dead Sea - traditionally and logically near where John baptized Jesus)to picture the wilderness where Jesus stayed for 40 days. It is barren and windly, wildly ranging in heights and depths below sea level - Bedouins were eager to sell jewelry and camel rides. Two small children played with an empty Coke bottle, ran barefoot over the rocks and chased about on the steep inclines - I couldn't watch. So our reflection time (especially when another bus of tourists arrived) was not particularly meditative. Shows you that the world will seek you out - even on top of a desert mountain! We headed back to our home in Jerusalem at St. Georges College.
The director of a Christian Palestinian justice/peace organization Sabeel (it means The Way or "spring water" in Arabic)came to tell us about the group and its vision for peace as a two-country solution. They consciously work at dialogue with all sides of this conflicted country. Tourists pass through checkpoints rather easily. We could immediately tell that the standard of living is much lower in the West Bank...checkpoints, settlement roads that are off-limits to Palestinians, fenced off land along the Jordan River that no one can use, numerous military enclaves. We could see the dramatic difference on agriculture when water is limited.

Galilee II

I think that my image of Jesus is much more robust than before - after visiting Galilee. It is truly a breadbasket for this country, with fruit tree orchards (including bananas), fields of grain and vegetables, a semi-tropical climate with water provided by gentle rains and the Jordan River. It is a beautiful land.
We started our visit at Caesarea on the Mediterranean Sea - extensive ruins from Herod the Great's buidling fervor. Actually it is Paul that scriptures connect with this place (Acts 10). It is one of Israel's top tourist destinations because of the extensive ruins -
Then we went to Sepphoris - which you may not have heard of (it is not mentioned in the Bible) - one of the Greek cities of the Decopolis - within eyesight of Nazareth - which also happened to be in a building boom during Joseph and Jesus' lifetimes. Do you think they knew about the Greek culture there? How could they not? We ended Monday, April 19 by arriving at our German guesthouse/hotel on the shore of the Sea of Galilee...and reflections on the day.
Tuesday we saw several ruins: Capernaum and Caesarea Phillipi - places that Jesus walked and taught - and shared the Lord's Supper by the Sea and then lunched on fresh (whole, head and all) fish. I can honestly say that it felt like Jesus was with us in the eating. I was so hot when we got back to the guesthouse, that I went floating in the Sea - and a turtle came up to tickle my toe. The next day there were rock badgers - 3 adults and 5 youngsters - feeding along the shore. The bird songs were phenomenal. And pretty wildflowers too....you get the picture when you add gentle, sloping land down to the sea - and across the lake, the Golan Heights (cliffs). That's where we headed the next morning.

Galilee

Sunday in Jerusalem

Sunday greetings! You'd think that we would have attended some important church, but tourist schedules being what they are - we headed for the Temple Mount which is the location of two mosques. There were many Muslim men in "Sunday school." We walked around and were amazed at the different worship structures that have appeared on this site - a holy place from the time of Abraham.
Our next emphasis was The City of David - a rich archeological site that is a relatively recent excavation project, complete with findings that match biblical names and descriptions. It is adjacent to the Mount and still being dug up. It is possible to see stones that would have been in place when Jesus came to Jerusalem - as a baby, a 12-year old lad, and as a man.
The other adventure was tracing a dry tunnel underneath David's city that dates to the Jebusites - 3000 years ago. It was a natural formation used to bring water inside of the fortifications of the ancient city - and proved to be the achilles heel when David attacked.

Bright sun. Did laundry. Worshipped withthe group before supper - and now have a tutor to show me what to do with photos. Tomorrow we leave for the region of Galilee for three days.

Journey to Bethlehem

Hello, dear ones! It is sunny and warm, some haze - cool breezes. Another good day for a trip. We started at the fortress called Herodian, built by Herod the Great before the time of Jesus. It was used as a castle and fortification - one of many around the country. He prepared to defend himself against many enemies (including Cleopatra) and members of his own family and staff. Probably his tomb is here as well - and there are great cisterns and interior passageways as well as a well-preserved fort and baths. A mother cat and kitten are current occupants, many wild flowers, birds, and butterflies. It is a high place with a marvelous view - if it were clear - to the Dead Sea in one direction and Bethlehem in another.
Then we moved on to The Shepherd's Field - a Franciscan area of Bethlehem which has grottos and gardens - a site for remembering the angels' appearance to the shepherds on the night that Jesus was born. We reflected and sang in our group - peaceful.
Lunch was at the Tent Restaurant - again, very Middle Eastern with a nice sweet and coffee at the end. Soft drinks are very expensive.
Finally we proceded to the Church of the Nativity - but the line was too long to view the grotto where tradition says the manger was located. The church(es) was interesting as it is shared by the Armenians, Greek Orthodox, and Roman Catholic jurisdictions. The structures we could view date from the 4th C when Constantine's mother came to the Holy Land with money for construction - determined to replace a pagan temple on the spot dedicated to Adonis. We looked about, saw a cave area where Church Father Jerome was said to have translated the Bible into Latin, and later traces of construction dating from the Crusades. The Roman Catholic area was built in the 20th C - and it is the place from which Christmas Eve service is televised worldwide except in Israel. There were many tourist groups of varied nationalities - it is a MUCH busier place than Hebron.
The visit ended as we stopped to photograph the huge dividing wall that Israel has constructed and artists have covered with graffiti - Bethlehem proper is Palestinian, but its city edge is adjacent to Israeli property; it is only 5 miles from Jerusalem. So on this day, we saw very few Israeli soldiers except at the check points going in and out - soldiers on the bus to check passports.
Now it is time to read and rest and leisurely stroll - it is Shabbat/Sabbath in Jerusalem. Blessings!

Part II - Desert discoveries

After a good night's rest and before breakfast but after sunrise - we had a Eucharist (communion service) before the other tourists in the camp were stirring. Bread and wine, nourishment in the desert is greatly appreciated for body and soul. Breakfast in a very huge tent (with tables) included some new things: havlah, tuna, assortment of olives and sheep or camel cheeses.
Two destitnations today: Qumran and the Dead Sea. Qumran is an excavation now at the foot of a series of 300+ caves. In 1947 the first of the Dead Sea Scrolls was discovered by a Bedouin shepherd, with other jars/scrolls discovered in 11 caves - dating from before the time of Jesus and including all our Old Testament books except Esther, and other scrolls about the Essene faith community. We learned a bit about Essene life, considering whether John the Baptist and therefore Jesus knew about this small desert religious movement. They were in conflict with the Jerusalem Temple religious establishment. It was a disappointment that no fragments of the scrolls are on display here - the ones not sold away to collectors are now housed at the Israel Museum - which we hope to visit another day.
The Dead Sea - what can I say? It's big with the mountains of Moab and Jordan on the other side. It is evaporating at an annual rate of 3 ft - do the descent down to the water from the bus parking lot is substantial. There were lots of people - and of course, I and most of our group got into swimsuits and floated in. It was a refresing temperture, black mud on the bottom, and it's true - you can't sink - the water is 33% solid substance: salt, bromide, iodine, magnesium, etc. The sea doesn't grow anything live - and it has not outlet. Just below Qumran is where the Jordan River flows into it...with less water than in times past because of drought, irrigation, and industrial usage. We are now back from this trip - and I think I must go shower.
Peace be with you.

Part I - A tent in the desert

Actually these two days have been absolutely packed with impressions of the "holy." We started off in Hebron - in the West Bank (disputed territories - depends on which map), a city of 150,000 Palestinians, virtually all Arab Muslims. Our rendevous was with a Christian Peacemaking Team that lives next to an embedded Jewish settlement of 200-400 Jewish settlers within the city. They were awarded land and buildings after 7 Yeshiva students were gunned down several years ago. The settlers are here, isolated, from ideological conviction - and they are protected by an Israeli outpost of soldiers. The Palestinians have limited access in this area, shops have closed nearby, there are check-points and one major thoroughfare completely off-limits to non-Israelis. Complex, confusing, and one little portrait of the daily conditions here.
A walk through the Old Town took us to the mosque which was built over the gravesite of ABraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca, Jacob and Leah (Rachel's tomb is near Bethlehem) - the tomb of the patriarchs/matriarchs of Jews, Christians and Muslims. It was a small, not-showy, bustling place with mostly Muslim tourists.... not many Christians or Jewish tourists in Hebron these days. I was moved by the privilage of being there, and it was sacred space. The actual graves are purported to be in caves about 36 ft. under the floor where we stood.
We had a picnic lunch at Tel BeerSheva - "tel" being a hill formed by layers of civilization. It was a high place looking over the desert of Negev - and the site of a covenant between Abraham and Abimileck (Genesis 21:25-33). The site is excavated to show a huge cistern/water holding arrangement that made it an important stop between Egypt and points north. Be'er Sheva is mentioned in the Old Testament at least 5 times. The Tel is outside of the current modern city, and is a national park. The air is hot and dry but with a breeze, so if you can find shade it's very pleasant. We must remember to drink water all the time!! This is the land of the Israelites (Old Testament).
When do we get to the tent?! Now - Thursday evening - our Bedouin host prepared and served coffee in this settlement for tourists - cabins available too - and then we went on a camel ride/walk/quite a calming experience for about a half hour. We were given a very large, covered in woolen cloth and canvas tent with pads, sleeping bags, and sheets - enough to accomodate all 40 men and women! You can imagine we were nervous about getting any actual sleep, but it worked out very well. We turned in early after a traditional supper of kababs, fresh vegetables, and the omni-present pita and hummus...and lemonade which hit the spot. What was holy was the breeze, stars, sounds of birds and donkeys trotting by as the work staff headed home to small Bedouin enclaves nearby. The Bedouin - desert people - don't move homesteads like they used to, but there is a continuation of sheep herding by those in this area. Many have been relocated into small towns, not much in the way of infrastructure and work and education. The young people are mostly leaving.
The desert is not sandy; it is covered in rocks and animal footpaths and hills. Whever there is water, there are trees... but these places are far between. The few cities have water piped in from up north - this is Israeli territory.

Jerusalem today

Hello - you can imagine my delight in figuring out how to get the Hebrew instructions for blogging to translate! Since you didn't hear of any plane crashes in Tel Aviv, you have rightly assumed I arrived here yesterday. The highlight of the flight was that about 1/3 of the passengers were Orthodox Jews.... and the men all stood up at sunrise, donned prayer shawls, and prayed in the new day - 41,000 ft over Spain. Entry into Israel was uneventful for me - some of our group who came by way of Munich had a total luggagge search and one gentlemen didn't get his bag until today. I exchanged money at the airport - about 3.5 NIS (New Israeli Shekels) per dollar.
The total class group is 40 members - mostly Episcopalians, 27 from Cincinnati, some from New Zealand, Wales, and England: all cordial. St. George's College is an adult education program connected with St. George's Cathedral, the Episcopal centre of the Middle East. This place dates from 1910 - and when the British took Jerusalem in 1917, the truce with the Ottoman Empire was signed here - beginning the British mandate in Palestine that only ended in 1948 (with Israel's creation). Anyway, the facility is lovely and an oasis in East Jerusalem.
We had class this morning and then took off on a bus for lunch at a former Benedictine monastery - lots of fresh vegetables (especially pretty carrots), rice, and fruit and chicken. Then we climbed up to the roof for a striking panoramic view of Jerusalem - the church towers, minarets, valleys, walls, graveyards. The topography is impressive as is the construction in pale stone - ancient and on-going. Our bus passed the Church of All Nations at the Garden of Gethsemane on the way back.
A few of us set out in the afternoon through the Damascus Gate into the Old City. Observing other tourists is half the fun. We walked past markets (I bought some frankencense and postcards) and restaurants - and continued to the Western Wall of the Temple Mount (the part left standing after the destruction of Jerusalem by the Romans in 70 AD. It was memorable to join the women's section and approach the Wall and offer my prayer for peace. There was a large contingent of Israeli soldiers standing in formation, but we never found out why.
We viewed a film made by the Franciscans about some of the sites we'll be visiting. Tomorrow we head to the Negev Desert and will spend the night in a Bedouin tent!

On the way

What a beautiful day to travel! A church member, Pat, is taking me to the airport. Flying US Airways, I head to Philadelphia around 3 p.m. from Cleveland. Departing at 9 p.m. from there, I will arrive in Tel Aviv (direct) 11+ hours later at 3:20 on Tuesday. I have a US Airways credit card so hope to avoid checked bag fee - what an irritant! And I have a pass to the lounge for the airline, so that's where I'll be mooching a free supper. For those who are curious, round-trip airfare was aroung $1300 - I bought the ticket last year.
Packing was challenging: rolling suitcase or backpack??? I went with my daughter Clarissa's very nice backpack - since I will be hoofing it to hostels for some portion of the trip.
Good news is that 14 others who are in my St. Georges program are on the same flight. So there will be a mini-van waiting for us to get our luggage and take us to Jerusalem. Nice to be taken care of until getting "the lay of the land" and exchanging money, etc. The program officially starts with dinner on Tuesday.
Thank you for all the messages of encouragement and prayers. The adventure begins!

Holy Land trip - 2010

Being gone for six weeks is a challenge (and a luxury, I know). Doing last minute things such as notifying credit card companies, getting travellers checks (how much is enough?), stopping mail and newspaper, wondering about lawn mowing ... and getting things straightened away at the church (six bulletins mostly done). Trying to pack light and still have what is needed - knee pads for the dig, hat and sunscreen (though it is wet and cold here today); are any shoes comfortable? Trying to stay well.

This Sunday's sermon will reflect on "land" as God's promise to Abraham (and Sarah and Hagar) whose descendants form the three great monotheistic faiths: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Did disturbances in Israel/Palestine really start way back then?

Thanks for checking out this blog - still trying to get the hang of it.

Someone asked me how I chose which groups to travel with - and how my

Keeping in Touch

Hello. Since I will soon be leaving for a 6-week sabbatical in Israel/Palestine, I want to start this blog and get familiar with the format. Then whenever I can get access to a computer while I'm traveling, I can send up-dates and observations. I might figure out how to add photos.

Right now, I'm making lists and trying to get registered for different components of the trip. I start with an organized tour group through St. George's College in Jerusalem. After that, I have a few days on my own in Jerusalem. Then it's off to Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee for an archealogical dig - 5 days of work in the morning - followed by lectures and bike rides in the afternoon....or at least that's how I envision it. Then another organized 10 days with emphasis on Palestinian conditions. And finally a few days on my own again before returning home.

I am very grateful to the Presbyterian Church for promoting sabbatical time and the Board of Pensions for providing $3000. This is my 25th year of ordination in the PCUSA and the 10th year at North Springfield Presbyterian Church. I could not have dreamed of this without the support of my congregation and guests who will fill the pulpit and colleagues who are on-call for pastoral care. So my family and a lot of other people are affected by this trip - and I want them to hear from me while the experience is fresh. I hope you enjoy by attempts at blogging!