What is it like in the West Bank where the Israel military controls the largest proportion of the territory - Area C? (Area A - under Palestine Authority totally; Area B - under Palestine civic governance but Israel oversight; Area C - Israel military control- according to the Oslo Accords). Jewish Israeli citizens must have a pass to enter, and few bother to come over the border from Israel - unless they are assigned as military personnel. Commerce is extremely difficult. Whenever stopped by the military, Palestinian citizens must be able to produce a paper showing they have a reason to be there even if it is their home. To go from one community to another means passing military checkpoints - and one can be detained for quite a while with no reason given. Any breaking of military law is subject to military detention and military courts. Any portion of the land can be closed off for security reasons at any time. If one is Palestinian, one must receive permission for any housing construction/addition - and this is frequently denied. If one is Palestinian, one must be able to show proof of ownership of the land - with documents - from before 1948. If this is missing, the military can clear the land by demolishing any construction and sell if to a Jewish family. Seldom are Palestinians allowed to buy new property; sometimes Palestinians sell to a third party and only later learn that it is being inhabited by Israeli settlers. Large tracts of land are consolidated and developed for Israeli settlers, some of whom move into nicely constructed "settlements" for economic advantage - and some of whom move to odd locations within Arab communities for ideological reasons. Settlements are strategically established to surround East Jerusalem and constrict Arab towns. Every settler is entitled to security protection by the IDF - Israel Defense Force - who will do nothing if a settler is disturbing the peace or trespassing on Palestinian land. Many settlements are provided with special roads that will take them into Jerusalem/Israel without passing through Palestinian settlements, and land/houses are taken from Palestinians to accomodate this. Sometimes these road cut through a Palestinian village, and the local people are not allowed on them - they can be detained. If a village is Bedouin, it will not have government-provided schools or health care. No permanent buildings are permitted - all have demolition orders. Water and electricity may be provided to a nearby Israeli settlement - but none will be made available to the Bedouins. Are you getting a picture? Everything possible is being done to keep a growing number of Israeli settlements (illegal according to international law) separate from the Palestinian population. The reality on the ground is bizarre, almost unbelievable. There is no balance of power, no equality. A Palestinian cannot fly out of Ben Gurion airport; they have to go into Jordan. If they need medical care in Jerusalem, they have to get an authorized pass to travel there...sometimes too late. Students who must pass through checkpoints will be late for class; many have lost jobs because of travel difficulties and not getting permits renewed.
If you want to know more, send me a comment or email and I'll suggest some webpages, including the UN. Look at a map of Israel - the "disputed territory" is where Palestinians and President Obama and I/human rights advocates want to end the occupation.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Palestinian voices
I am about to report on two VERY FULL days of visits with individuals who are strong advocates for justice. The last person was Sam Bahour, an American born in Youngstown, Ohio, who is Palestinian, married to a Palestinian, with two teen girls and all live in Ramallah. He is a business consultant and realist/writer on relations with America. He has been a force in economic development and is a supporter of a growing international movement for boycott, divestment from Israel companies until the occupation of the West Bank is ended. Now that was a loaded sentence and phrases I've learned about during trips into Palestinian cities and the countryside.
We visited Ata who lives close to settlers who regularly threaten his family. We visited the Christian Peacemakers Team in the Old City of Hebron - and my eyes could pick out the ring of settlements (400 Jewish settlers embedded in a city of many thousands). Then we heard from two family members who have set up a Tent of Nations on the top of a hill (their family land), for a children's camp and touchpoint for internationals who wish to show solidarity with peace and justice. Tired as we were, the conversation with Sami Awad, Director of the Holy Land Trust, was riveting as he talked about leadership and community empowerment and understanding the needs of the "other side." In no case was hatred for Jews evident - but identifying political practices of Israel that are destructive to Palestinian people and telling firsthand stories of incredible inequity - yes, I too will call the conditions in the West Bank an occupation by a foreign power.
On Wednesday (today) we went to Ramallah which is a cultural and political center for Palestinians. We heard from Defense for Chilren International about children in prison, recruited as informants, and used as shields for soldiers. Again settler violence was described and depicted in film. And we met with a PLO staff person in the Negotiating Support Unit - to hear about and ask questions about PLO perspectives and dynamics. This fellow was born in Australia from refugee Palestinian parents. The men who have returned to this country to serve are very impressive and persuasive. What they say reinforces what we have seen.
We visited Ata who lives close to settlers who regularly threaten his family. We visited the Christian Peacemakers Team in the Old City of Hebron - and my eyes could pick out the ring of settlements (400 Jewish settlers embedded in a city of many thousands). Then we heard from two family members who have set up a Tent of Nations on the top of a hill (their family land), for a children's camp and touchpoint for internationals who wish to show solidarity with peace and justice. Tired as we were, the conversation with Sami Awad, Director of the Holy Land Trust, was riveting as he talked about leadership and community empowerment and understanding the needs of the "other side." In no case was hatred for Jews evident - but identifying political practices of Israel that are destructive to Palestinian people and telling firsthand stories of incredible inequity - yes, I too will call the conditions in the West Bank an occupation by a foreign power.
On Wednesday (today) we went to Ramallah which is a cultural and political center for Palestinians. We heard from Defense for Chilren International about children in prison, recruited as informants, and used as shields for soldiers. Again settler violence was described and depicted in film. And we met with a PLO staff person in the Negotiating Support Unit - to hear about and ask questions about PLO perspectives and dynamics. This fellow was born in Australia from refugee Palestinian parents. The men who have returned to this country to serve are very impressive and persuasive. What they say reinforces what we have seen.
Monday, May 10, 2010
Bethlehem - different perspective
I have the good fortune to be in Bethlehem to learn a second time. I did walk into the historic church and lay my hand at the spot which is venerated as the birthplace of Jesus. I have also seen historic photos of this place, and realize it was really a small village, with donkeys and camels and simple people stirring around 150+ years ago - long after the orthodox religious folks began minding the place. The blowing dust is impressive today - blotting out the vistas. I also had time to wander, to get bandages purchased by the piece from a roll, to shop at the women's embroidery cooperative, and see the Lutheran Church which is a mission partner with Ohio Valley Presbytery.
But then there's the other part of the day: students from Bethlehem University speaking about the difficulties of paying fees and getting to class from Jerusalem throught the checkpoint. A professor said - if they are late - don't blame everything onthe occupation! In other words, you know to start early from home, to adapt, to be strong. The university has a heritage exhibit/collection to remind young people that Palestinian heritage is rich with art and versatility. Some of the impressive art is on the wall surrounding the city, making it an "open prison." Sometimes the wall separated a shop owner from his home - always it cut off customers.Our broup met the director of BADIL, a refugee advocacy NGO and heard about their sense that justice will only come through one democratic nation, where all can share land and resources. Most Palesinian refugees live in the diaspora - beyond the borders of the WEst Bank. We visited some who are second and third generation in Dheisheh Refugee Camp -set up by the UN after 1948. It is regularly entered by IDF - Israeli Defense Forces. Unemployment is 60% In an area set up initially for temporary tents, there are now 13,000 residents - the larges of 3 refugee camps in Bethlehem's territory. It is sobering and also inspiring - as the people build new stories on their homes for expanding family - and children attend school - and people walked along with our hosts and greeted us, perhaps glad they are not forgotten by the internationals...as we are called here. There were flowers planted, water tanks shared, and graffiti naming young men in prison who are remembered.
But then there's the other part of the day: students from Bethlehem University speaking about the difficulties of paying fees and getting to class from Jerusalem throught the checkpoint. A professor said - if they are late - don't blame everything onthe occupation! In other words, you know to start early from home, to adapt, to be strong. The university has a heritage exhibit/collection to remind young people that Palestinian heritage is rich with art and versatility. Some of the impressive art is on the wall surrounding the city, making it an "open prison." Sometimes the wall separated a shop owner from his home - always it cut off customers.Our broup met the director of BADIL, a refugee advocacy NGO and heard about their sense that justice will only come through one democratic nation, where all can share land and resources. Most Palesinian refugees live in the diaspora - beyond the borders of the WEst Bank. We visited some who are second and third generation in Dheisheh Refugee Camp -set up by the UN after 1948. It is regularly entered by IDF - Israeli Defense Forces. Unemployment is 60% In an area set up initially for temporary tents, there are now 13,000 residents - the larges of 3 refugee camps in Bethlehem's territory. It is sobering and also inspiring - as the people build new stories on their homes for expanding family - and children attend school - and people walked along with our hosts and greeted us, perhaps glad they are not forgotten by the internationals...as we are called here. There were flowers planted, water tanks shared, and graffiti naming young men in prison who are remembered.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Jerusalem with different eyes
I have successfully met up with my travelling companions for the next phase of my travels. This is a group led by a Brit who works with the Israel Committee Against Housing Demolitions (there is an ICAHD US affiliate also). There are 12 of us from the US, Wales, England - one other Presbyterian (layperson from Santa Barbara), all interested in getting an up-close view of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, most have human rights background, most have not been in Israel before. We got settled into our Bethlehem hotel and heard from the manager about the flux in tourism - their #1 income source - according to political realities. This city is on the southeast doorstep of Jerusalem, but it is separated and nearly encircled by the (in)famous wall. I have a nice room, and meals are served on the top 4th floor with panoramic views of the area.
We began the day at the headquarters of ICAHD- and then walked through the Old City looking at the intentional placement of Jewish settlements in the Muslim Quarter. The history of the Jewish Quarter and the economics of the Old City are complex too. After lunch, we looked over the city at the winding wall and our guide talked about rationales for the zigging boundary - keep the most land in West Jerusalem and the least Palestinians, basically the larger strategy in line drawing. Saw the contrast of basic city services in West and East Jerusalem, also drowe into a settlement for a look/ quite modern and landscaped. One country or two? Arguments for both - sorry, I'm pretty tired and there was a whole lot of information to absorb. Fortunately, I have materials to bring home. We had a Palestinian dinner at the site where a Palestinian home has been demolished three times...and heard from the landowners. It is next to a Bedouin encampment, on the edge of Anata...a very poor Muslim town, which the prophet Jeremiah called home. His word from God seems to apply: I am not interested in your sacrifices when justice is not done to the poor. A very rich day of uncovering another layer.
We began the day at the headquarters of ICAHD- and then walked through the Old City looking at the intentional placement of Jewish settlements in the Muslim Quarter. The history of the Jewish Quarter and the economics of the Old City are complex too. After lunch, we looked over the city at the winding wall and our guide talked about rationales for the zigging boundary - keep the most land in West Jerusalem and the least Palestinians, basically the larger strategy in line drawing. Saw the contrast of basic city services in West and East Jerusalem, also drowe into a settlement for a look/ quite modern and landscaped. One country or two? Arguments for both - sorry, I'm pretty tired and there was a whole lot of information to absorb. Fortunately, I have materials to bring home. We had a Palestinian dinner at the site where a Palestinian home has been demolished three times...and heard from the landowners. It is next to a Bedouin encampment, on the edge of Anata...a very poor Muslim town, which the prophet Jeremiah called home. His word from God seems to apply: I am not interested in your sacrifices when justice is not done to the poor. A very rich day of uncovering another layer.
Friday, May 7, 2010
Traveling
Finished at the dig site - have a certificate to prove it! which is helpful when the security at the airport ask what you've been doing in Israel. I took a taxi to the bus station in Tiberias - the driver wanted to drive me all the way to Tel Aviv airport for 400 NIS then 200 NIS - about $40 - special price - so he could pick up new arrivals there - but of course, I am not yet leaving the country. Caught a bus to Jerusalem. The country is so small (about the land mass of Massachusetts) that I recognize some familiar landmarks along the highways. The typical route goes around the West Bank; at one point the dividing wall is visible and I counted 11 minarets in the town on the other side. I am glad that I didn't try to rent a car - it's expensive and I haven't grasped the local rules - such as why police were casually patrolling with their lights flashing. On the toll roads, they photograph the license plate and bill by mail - no stopping. The Egged buses are very nice, air-conditioned, travelled by families and old and young people, foreigners and orthodox Jews, and lots of soldiers who show a pass and ride for free - with their rifles. The only problem is that around 5 p.m. on Friday they stop running because of Shabbat - until Saturday evening. Because I am meeting my next travel group on Saturday at 5 p.m. - I had to get to Jerusalem today, even though there wouldn't be much to see - because of Shabbat! I have had an easy day and picked up supper early at a market. No complaints. My room is in the Old City, and I have been people watching. By the time you mix customary dress of Orthodox Jews and Orthodox Christians with Muslims and modern teens, it's fascinating.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Dig III
Today I spent my time washing pottery - getting the dirt off piece by piece by scrubbing with a brush. It is done one bucket at a time; each bucket is tagged according to its location at the dig; most of the fragments are pottery shards but mixed in and sorted are bits of bone, shells, terrazo/mosaic or marble pieces of flooring, and occasionally a coin. The latter are placed in plastic bags and labeled. The pottery is soaked in water overnight, so this is a cool job sitting in the shade playing with water and mud. My favorite piece was a hunk of a Roman lamp.
There are people entering data into computers, bagging and sorting the few pottery pieces that will be saved. making drawings, and marking out the grid with surveying instruments for the next phase - which goes next week and then this fall. It seems a slow, labor intensive process. I will always appreciate in a new way the "ruins" I see in the future.
For the archeologists, the pottery is a language. It tells the approximate age of a dig level - our square in the site was lowered each day by 10-15 cm - the dirt sifted in one bucket out of 5. We did find a hunk of romanesque cornice, but then nothing more. Other squares found walls, flooring and architectural details. The site director thinks this was the courtyard area of a mosque. Finally the dirt was not sifted and at day's end our particular square hole was shut down.
There's an egret rookery off in the distance, white birds clustered in a couple trees. Two hungry female dogs wandered through - they have litters somewhere. Only portions of the site will be preserved; places like this are discovered in so many parts of Israel, whenever sewer lines or foundations for new buildings are being dug. Tiberias literally has pieces of pillars and Crusader era walls strewn about in every direction...tangible proof of powers that have come and gone. I find it humbling.
There are people entering data into computers, bagging and sorting the few pottery pieces that will be saved. making drawings, and marking out the grid with surveying instruments for the next phase - which goes next week and then this fall. It seems a slow, labor intensive process. I will always appreciate in a new way the "ruins" I see in the future.
For the archeologists, the pottery is a language. It tells the approximate age of a dig level - our square in the site was lowered each day by 10-15 cm - the dirt sifted in one bucket out of 5. We did find a hunk of romanesque cornice, but then nothing more. Other squares found walls, flooring and architectural details. The site director thinks this was the courtyard area of a mosque. Finally the dirt was not sifted and at day's end our particular square hole was shut down.
There's an egret rookery off in the distance, white birds clustered in a couple trees. Two hungry female dogs wandered through - they have litters somewhere. Only portions of the site will be preserved; places like this are discovered in so many parts of Israel, whenever sewer lines or foundations for new buildings are being dug. Tiberias literally has pieces of pillars and Crusader era walls strewn about in every direction...tangible proof of powers that have come and gone. I find it humbling.
Field trip
Wednesday afternoon - the whole group headed by taxi around the south end of the Sea of Galilee - across the Jordan River (which is about 15 feet wide here) - up the dry hillside to the ruins of Sucita (Hyppos) - one of the decopolis, established originally as a Greek/Roman administrative center for the region. More recently, this was a military outpost for the Israeli army from 1948-1967 when Israel secured the Golan Heights. (I think if the US ARmy were stationed on top of ancient ruins, there wouldn't be much left to see - no offense). The original Roman roads, cistern and water system, reused remnants from temples that were incorporated into 4 byzantine churches (5-6th C.) and lots of interesting archeological elements are just sitting around, no security, no fence except to keep visitors away from potential mine fields. Great birds, strange plants. It's really incredible - pillars of granite hauled up the mountain, coming all the way from Egypt. Human beings do impressive work when they are determined. This town would have existed in Jesus' time - but we know of no connection with him. However, the winding road does connect the Sea of Galilee with Damascus - so perhaps Paul's encounter with Jesus occurred somewhere along this route.
Wednesday evening - lovely dinner, well-seasoned food - I skipped the salad bar - at the Scot Hotel. Rev. Colin kept the conversation interesting - comparing his assignment in Tiberias with his prior pastorate in Zambia. Memorable to be served on the outdoor patio by staff he knew by name.
Tiberias is in a great setting, except it is HOT already - I can't imagine it in July. While there are many Orthodox Jews who vacation here, it has a very secular feel with the tourist venues, shops, and eateries. It would feel quite isolated before the invention of the auto/bus due to the mountains ringing the lake.
Wednesday evening - lovely dinner, well-seasoned food - I skipped the salad bar - at the Scot Hotel. Rev. Colin kept the conversation interesting - comparing his assignment in Tiberias with his prior pastorate in Zambia. Memorable to be served on the outdoor patio by staff he knew by name.
Tiberias is in a great setting, except it is HOT already - I can't imagine it in July. While there are many Orthodox Jews who vacation here, it has a very secular feel with the tourist venues, shops, and eateries. It would feel quite isolated before the invention of the auto/bus due to the mountains ringing the lake.
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